Describing this Icelandic delicacy won’t do it any favours but I will try because I like it very much.

Harðfiskur is a protein-rich Icelandic dish, traditionally made by wind-drying white fish like cod or haddock. This dehydrates the protein which in turn helps preserve it. The wind also keeps flies at bay.

It’s tough but flakey, with a texture like a leathery jerky. It has a fishy musk. It’s got the flavour of a fish supper without the vinegar or crunch of the batter. It’s reminiscent of fish food. I’m not selling it

Nonetheless I still recommend it.

On paper Harðfiskur doesn’t sound palatable at all, but it has a soft, complex flavour which definitely grows on you. Furthermore, the robustness of the flavour and texture means that it stands up extremely well to a powerful martini.

It’s often served at the start of a meal, so this meshes nicely with the timing of a martini as well.

Harðfiskur is really nice with cold butter. Iceland has always had to import its grain, so bread was a historically expensive item. Unlike Denmark with its fertile fields and subsequent bread culture of smørrebrød, Icelanders took to spreading butter on the Harðfiskur instead. It’s surprisingly nice, and of course, suitable for coeliac sufferers.

Cheers to Þorri

It is also particularly consumed around the Icelandic month of Þorri, which runs from around the middle of January through to mid-February. This marks the end of the hardest part of winter and is a great time for bringing people around the table for food and enjoyment.

If you’re looking for a supplier, I recommend Eyrarfiskur, a family-run business in Stokkseyri in the southwest of Iceland.

Otherwise, consider pairing it with akvavit or a beautiful martini made with Martin Miller’s gin.

Skàl!