This recipe is very much inspired by Peru.

However, I was once accused of being “an evil agent” working for the Chilean government to sabotage the reputation of Peru… a little unforeseen side effect of my unusual career in the murky world of intelligence.

Nonetheless, despite the attempted slander I am a firm fan of Peruvian cuisine and drinking culture.

I love Pisco and prefer a Pisco Sour over most other cocktails.

Seafood plays a big role in some of the more distinctive dishes originating in Peru. Acclaimed Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa uses a lot of Peruvian-inspired recipes and I’ve had one or two delightful dishes in some of the many Latin American restaurants in south London.

Given my seafood heritage it was inevitable that I was going to give some of these dishes a go one day.

I now enjoy making very simple but pretty attention-grabbing ceviche using fresh fish bought in the morning such as salmon or a host of white fish.

Many recipes call for the fish to be cut into small cubes but if the fish I get is especially fresh I like to use the fillet whole and slice it sashimi-style just before serving.

As a basic starter, for four small fillets of fish (about 300g / 10oz) you can use the juice of two oranges, four lemons and three limes plus a dash of hot sauce. I slice a red onion then layer it with the fish in a tupperware tub, then pour over the citrus juice. I thoroughly recommend adding chopped fresh coriander/cilantro, parsley and at least one finely chopped, de-seeded fresh chilli or two. Red chillies look more visually striking. Seal the tub tightly and place it in the fridge for at least four hours if you’re using whole fillets, or at least two-three hours if you have cut the fillets into small cubes.

It can be a bit nerve-wracking the first time you attempt this. Raw fish in citrus juice? You might imagine creating all sorts of monstrous fish-stinking disasters.

However, when you serve up the fish uncooked, you will find it smelling fresh and zesty, while the fish has a silken texture like sashimi, but the most electric tasting sashimi you ever had.

Obviously you don’t need to cook the fish so it’s pretty easy after you’ve assembled everything.

I like to use salmon for this dish, but it works with all sorts of other species.

Once you have plated the fish, it is traditional to serve a small glass of the marinade liquid on the side to drink as a shot. This liquid is called Leche de Tiger (Tiger Milk) and is known as an aphrodisiac. It’s refreshing, spicy and heady with a bit of a kick.

It was only a matter of time before I turned this into a martini. I was keen to find out if the citrus flavours would work, and if the acid juice would integrate with the alcohol.

At the time I first came up with this (2014-2015) no-one on the internet appeared to have tried it out, and now, nearly a decade later it still seems untested. As a result, I think I can possibly stake my claim on the drink. It’s one of my absolute favourite martini variations.

Instructions

You will need:

• Vermouth (optional)
• Gin or vodka, kept chilled in the freezer for at least five hours.
• Leche de Tigre (from a fresh made batch of ceviche, as above)
• Fresh lemon to garnish (optional)
• A chilled V-shaped glass, also kept in the freezer for an hour if possible

The vermouth is barely needed in this martini because the Leche de Tigre is non-alcoholic but a sweet vermouth balances the tart citrus very nicely.

The Leche de Tigre compliments the flavours of most gins very well, but it also goes perfectly with a vodka martini.

Pour a small measure of Leche de Tigre into the glass then top up with gin or vodka.

If you want to garnish the drink with lemon, take a strip of lemon peel, trim it, then use it to stir the drink so the Leche de Tigre is evenly mixed with the alcohol. You can drop the lemon peel into the glass or you can discard, it’s up to you, but the stirring is handy.

Serve immediately, preferably with ceviche on the side and even a chaser of Leche de Tigre.

It goes down very nicely. It’s a real wake-up, it whets your appetite, and it prepares your taste buds for the even more citrussy food that’s accompanying the drink.

It can also be even more visually appealing if you add some form of beetroot (ie pickled beetroot, or even just the red coloured pickle liquor).

If you are still unconvinced, it’s absolutely fine to stick to your classic martini and simply serve a shot of the Tiger Milk on the side.

I like my martinis very dry, but you may also find that the flavor of the Leche de Tigre is so tantalising, especially if you serve more in a shot on the side, that you want to mix up the spirit/leche ratio in the drink.

For an additional flavour explosion you can even grind in some fresh pepper to the drink, a surprisingly good addition to a classic martini as I have written about.

I would also go so far as to say that Leche de Tigre is so tasty, so electrifying on the tongue and so heady that it makes an incredible mocktail. If I could never drink alcohol again I would lament the loss of my martini ceremonies, but I could evoke the spirit by serving a spicy Tiger Milk in a chilled martini glass and it certainly wouldn’t be a disappointment!

So, dear Peru, I’m not an evil agent of the Chilean government trying to bring you down. I’m very fond of your cuisine and your drinks and very grateful that you have created them for the world. Salud!