Torskerogn (cod roe) is a Scandinavian staple, but feels particularly Danish in winter. It was popular in my household growing up and reminds me of my childhood.

It’s rich, salty, creamy and buttery. It’s pretty easy to prepare. It also goes beautifully with a martini.

I took a trip to Selfridge’s on Oxford Street to use up a gift card I had been kindly provided with by a former employer.

Of all the things, I couldn’t help picking up the smoked cod roe I found in the food hall. It just looked so tasty and rich, like a bag of pure comfort. I took it home and prepared it that night.

How to cook it

Bring a pan of water to a gentle boil. Wrap the roe in tin foil or baking paper (and tie it with a string) and gently lower it into the water and cover it with a lid.

If the roe has been smoked I would only cook it for about 8-10 minutes. For completely raw roe I would cook it for 10-15 (some people would cook it for 20 to make sure it is very firm).

After this, remove the pan from the heat and leave the roe to continue cooking for several hours while the water cools down.

Cooking the roe can create a fishy smell in your house so it’s advisable to light some incense or take other appropriate measures – especially if you’re going to serve martinis later. Cleanse your home before the ceremony.

When it’s time to serve, my grandmother would slice the roe and pan fry it in bacon fat to serve as part of a luxurious fry up. You can also fry it in butter or oil. Personally I quite like it as it is though, served cold on the side. I find it fatty enough and I like to savour the simple, rich flavour.

The cooking water is also really good for warming up again. You can stir in some miso paste to make a hearty soup.

The slices of torskerogn go beautifully with a martini. Perhaps you could try pairing some with Jensen’s or Geranium gin to match this Danish staple.

Skål!