A Martini with Liquorice

Some people might like to try some liquorice (or licorice) with their martini.

Martinis are normally paired with savoury foods, but many people enjoy sweet accompaniments as well. Liquorice also comes in salty versions, particularly in northern Europe.

Many types of modern liquorice also form part of the elite ranks of black coloured food – always worthy of investigation.

Otherwise, the plant has a very long connection with gin.

The sweet, aromatic root of liquorice has been consumed for millennia as both food and medicine, particularly from China to North Africa and all along the Silk Road. It featured in many an ancient civilisation and was even found in the tomb of Tutankhamun.

It spread further during the medieval era and was often used as a cough medicine. It also evolved into confectionery which many people today will be familiar with.

In large parts of northern Europe it is even salted to create strong-tasting sweet-savoury items like zoute drops in the Netherlands or salmiakki in Finland. Salmiakki is also used in a Finnish vodka, sometimes referred to as Salmari. There’s a very interesting review of it in the Difford’s Guide.

But back to gin…

Since the 1700s liquorice has been used as one of the many botanicals for flavouring gins. In Britain it was used to flavour Old Tom Gin, which is less dry than a standard London Gin.

The root was valued for its natural sweetness, although its strong flavour profile was also likely used to mask all sorts of taints and impurities in some of the less conscientiously produced gins of eighteenth century London.

In modern times it is still used to flavour gins, but the need for sweetness or masking botanicals is no longer as paramount as during the Hogarth-era.

Stand out examples of liquorice gin today include Hayman’s gin and Beefeater.

Given its extensive gin connections, liquorice therefore makes a very suitable martini accompaniment if you like the flavour.

Preparation is simple. Just get the brand of liquorice you like and serve a little on a small plate by your drink.

A little goes a long way.

I tried a martini with some Swedish salted liquorice I picked up from IKEA. It has a chewy, buttery texture with an anise flavour, salty and not overly sweet. The taste pairs gently with gin and there was something about the slow chewing pace that matched well with the cadence of gentle martini sips. You have to work at it while the flavours develop in the mouth.

I also tried a martini with Nordic School Chalk liquorice from the Black Liquorice Company. This has a nice flavour and a satisfying crunch from its egg-shell light coating.

In general, liquorice is not my favourite accompaniment for a martini, but that’s purely down to a personal preference regarding anise flavours. If you like the taste it complements a martini very well. The flavours are highly compatible with a lot of gin botanicals and the aftertastes of both intertwine nicely.

I suggest giving it a go, even if you’re not sure you like liquorice, you might be surprised.

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