I took a train to the Kentish coastal town of Margate on the weekend of the King’s Birthday.

Margate has long been famed for its beautiful beach and sublime natural light. It is one of the few places on the British east coast where the sun sets over the sea.

This positioning and other unique conditions inspired painters such as Turner to capture its stunning skies.

So in a town so notable for its lighting during the blessed “violet hour”, what better way to mark the passing of the day than with an ice cold drink to watch the shimmering waves and the wheeling gulls at the setting of the sun?

Dory’s is a seafood bar on Marine Drive overlooking the beach. I’m not sure how many Marine Drives there are in the world but the one in Mumbai also has exquisite sunsets and good martinis so I was drawn to the street, and then to what looked like an unpretentious but specialist venue.

What caught my eye as I walked past was the simple but telling layout: clean, sharp countertops, laid out simply, but attentively with unpretentious glassware. It reminded me of the small but multiple-review-popping venues of Seville – an absolute heaven for good eating.

I can assure you that Dory’s was exactly what I wanted: excellent quality British seafood in a relaxing style of Spanish tapas with a beautiful view and attentive staff.

Everyone was very knowledgeable, and indeed passionate about the produce, while the service was fast. It was a very well-run operation.

It’s always a good sign when you are served water immediately upon arrival. It’s also a good sign when there’s a small queue of eagerly waiting diners. Green flags all round.

The drinks menu was focussed and reassuringly well thought-through. It appears that the house gin is Harris, which can only ever be a good thing. The people of Harris know all about seafood and so too do the people at Dory’s (and its sister restaurant Angela’s). Harris gin is an excellent match.

Obviously I ordered the Gibson. It is made with Harris gin and Aperitivo Co, a delightful vermouth produced in the West English city of Bristol.

As well as the quality of the ingredients, the drink had been chilled with ice, but I would recommend keeping the gin in the freezer to get it really cold. That would’ve knocked my socks off at the end of the hot weather we had all week. It would also make it a lot easier to mix one up when needed, but I appreciate that freezer space might not be compatible with a compact and very busy kitchen.

The Martini is also served in a small glass. It was good value for money at £9 but I would rather pay more for a bigger V-shaped glass. It might not suit the menu or the eating and drinking style of Dory’s, and the drink proportions seemed much more akin to a Mediterranean vermuteria which is absolutely understandable. Nonetheless, if Dory’s ever decided to go down the route of more substantial martinis, they definitely have the skills, ingredients – and setting – to do it well.

I ordered smoked and soused mussels which were beautifully sweet and sour with a delicate, rich aftertaste. I also ordered whipped cod roe with pickles and radishes which was seemingly simple but an utterly gorgeous, silky umami accompaniment to my drink.

I actually used the pickled onion in my Gibson to dip into the cod roe when it was time to eat the garnish. It felt utterly sacrilegious but also appropriately delicious. Recommended. Oops!

The music was old school rhythm and blues, Motown and reggae when I visited, with a general buzz and some friendly interaction between customers recommending dishes to one another at the bar.

The clientele were very international. I was sat next to a German-American couple eagerly trying West country cheeses with their mussels and wine, while two Japanese ladies sipped negronis by the window, with the setting sun lighting up their shellfish and orange glasses.

The oyster vermouth on the menu was also delicious. It was nicely balanced between sweet and dry and I am in no doubt that it would make an excellent martini. One to try in the future.

Other highlights of the day included a walk on the beach and a visit to the mysterious Shell Grotto (pictured above). My sunset tapas and martini, however, was the highlight. I very much recommend trying out Dory’s if you’re ever in town. The next time I’m around, I might try to visit the sister venue Angela’s as well.

Cheers!