Hernö is the most awarded craft gin producer in the world and has been distilling in their hand-hammered copper stills since 2011. They are headquartered in Dala, outside Härnösand and the High Coast area of northern Sweden but have a dedicated bar on trendy Södermalm for the Stockholm crowd to party in.

I didn’t realise how close this venue was to my hotel when I arrived in the Swedish capital. What luck! You’ll find it on the corners of Götgatan and Hornsgatan near Slussen station at the north end of Södermalm.

I was made to feel extremely welcome on arrival on what was a bustling, sunny Friday evening.

Exploring the Summer Night City

I was very, very thirsty at this point. On arrival in this beautiful city I had decided to run around 20km in order to see as much of it as possible during my brief stay. I was not disappointed.

Views from Söder Mälarstrand, a traverse through Gamla Stan, along Strandvägen and over to Djurgården revealed such a wealth of beautiful contrasts.

As a Hebridean I understand that islands across the world share many characteristics, but that each one is truly unique.

This feels particularly evident in Stockholm with the sharp contrasts between the winding alleys of the old town, urban grit of Norrmalm and almost arresting peace in the woodlands on Djurgården.

I even had the fortune to spot a deer amongst the trees before the long trek back. In hindsight (no pun intended), I probably should’ve taken the efficient ferry service back to Slussen and chill out in the breeze during my crossing but instead I ran back, retracing my steps just to try and see as much of the waterfront as possible.

Either way, once I showered, changed my clothes and staggered into the Hernö bar I was READY for my first martini in Sweden.

Entering the Bar

The staff are fun and attentive but also give you space to enjoy your drink. I was served water immediately (which I very much needed) and seated at the bar, providing me with a front row view of the live action cocktail-making, although other seats will afford you fascinating views of the customers as well.

The crowd was almost entirely Swedish, with trendy Söderites enjoying the evening. Some were groups of friends and others were couples on happy dates.

A Very Welcome Martini Menu

Joyfully, the venue actually has a specific martini menu. When I asked about the drinks I had a very rapid-fire exchange with the excellent bar tender.

She asked me all the reassuring questions and recommended that their standard ‘house’ pour of a dry martini would come with a twist of lemon peel and a spray of orange bitters. I went with the recommendation but they will happily serve your martini to your preference.

They have olives and pickled onions to garnish as well as an array of bitters including lemon, grapefruit, lavender and celery.

The Serve

It was quickly served, with a milky appearance in delicate Nordic coupe glassware. It isn’t in the more classical V-shaped glasses but the quality of the glassware is so good I cannot complain.

The lemon peel had been expressed into the glass and then shaped to perfectly fit. In addition to the bitters this kept the nose activated with each sip.

Overall the drink was dry, herbal and peppery. Delicious.

The gin was Hernö navy strength, which is 57% so watch out! It’s definitely not one to break the two martini rule to. It’s also juniper-leading which is very much the preference of this traditionalist. The vermouth was Dolin.

The Food

They have a very nice menu of food to accompany the drinks, including things like oysters, cured fish and fried olives. I went with the summer tartare which was lovingly mixed with apple and pomegranate seeds and topped with freshly grated parmesan.

It was absolutely delicious and a joyous combination of textures between the juicy raw steak and crunchy fried slices of garlic. The rich texture combination and fresh flavours went very well with the cold, botanical gin.

The Setting

The venue feels like an old bank building that has been playfully repurposed with natural light in the summer evening, the occasional bird of paradise plant and an overall air of professional but relaxed fun.

I particularly liked the window seats but don’t break the two martini rule if you’re sitting there because a room full of über-cool Swedes will witness you if you make a tumble.

I notice that the bar serves a martini flight including a dry, 50:50 and a Martinez. Luckily the latter two don’t have the full strength of a dry martini because they include more vermouth but take care nonetheless! This is breaking the rule!

The Martini Socialist Verdict

For 185 SEK (roughly £14 or US$18 in early July 2024) this was very affordable. People always think the Nordic countries are really expensive but in comparison to London it’s a beautiful bargain bucket of professional excellence. I feel like this part of the world is the true home of Martini Socialism.

Otherwise, this is an excellent venue that delivers what the Nordic countries are really good at – fun but highly professional service, good knowledge, skill, capability and charm – all for what I consider to be extremely good value for money.

So book yourself a trip! Check out Visit Stockholm, try Hernö gin and make sure to drop into their Södermalm bar when you’re in town.

Skål!