I drifted into borough market the other day and found myself standing in front of a fishmonger’s counter staring at all the produce. I couldn’t leave empty handed and suddenly felt a craving for salty, briny oysters so I bought a handful.I’ve made a martini with oysters before (you can see the blog post here).
This time, though, I was inspired by a story I’d heard about a martini made with gin shaken up with crushed oyster shells.
There’s something anciently pleasing about oyster shells. We always have a pile of discarded ones in the garden by our kitchen door. It’s like a primordial mark of civility, like our Roman and prehistoric Hebridean forebears.
From a taste perspective, I like the ground, salty and metallic/chalky flavour.
So I got to work. I opened the oysters and ground one of the flat, detached shells with a pestle and mortar.
I poured some chilled gin into a jug with the pulverised shell and stirred I vigorously for about 30 seconds.
I then strained the gin and added it to vermouth in a glass to make a martini.
As with a classic martini, I had rubbed some lemon peel into the glass first as this little citrus touch goes nicely with the oyster flavour.
I then served the martini with the opened oysters on the side.
I liked the sharp, metallic taste that the process gave the martini, although I was really craving something saltier and ended up pouring some of the brine in as well.
In sum total, I would say that crushing the oyster shell was a bit of a faff and ultimately the best part of the flavour simply came from the oyster brine I added at the end.
So I concluded that unless you have a lot of time, I would keep it simple. If you’re craving an oyster-themed martini simply serve them on the side of a simple classic martini and pour in some of the brine to taste. You could even tip the whole body of one in for a striking (and tasty) aperitif.