Within minutes of landing in Copenhagen I was standing in front of the Sanders Hotel, ready to step into the highly regarded TATA cocktail bar.

It had started to rain on my walk to the venue, with Friday night urbanites sheltering under the flapping awnings along the cobbled streets. As refreshing as it was after the long, dusty Indian summer of London, I was still fairly drenched by the time I got to the venue.

I stepped into the intimate, softly-lit interior and was immediately welcomed by bow-tied staff calling out a gratefully received “ciao” from behind the busy, classically-styled bar. It was a feeling of sudden warmth on the cold night.

I was then whisked away by the charming and award-winning barman Riccardo who spirited me into a sumptuous bathroom area and bestowed me with towels to dry off from the rainstorm. All boded well.

Upon returning to the bar, refreshed, dry and warm, I was placed at what I firmly believe to be the best seat in the house: right by the service area. I had a front row ticket to the theatre of the professionals at their craft, as well as a view of the length of the bar and all the extra cast members entering and exiting the stage through the night.

Indeed theatre is a theme of the venue. Tata bar takes its name from the red velvet curtain from the neighbouring royal theatre, and the top performance is from the mixologists.

If you come here for one thing, it’s the fun, charming and hugely professional bar tenders. Everything else is serendipity – but there is much else.

I was given a glass of chilled water as soon as I was arranged at my seat. A small coupe of complimentary champagne followed swiftly after.

I think when I stumbled in from the rain I had said something about needing a martini because Riccardo quickly returned and asked:

“…So, a martini?”
“Yes.”
“Dry?”
“Yes.”
“Gin?”
“Yes.”
“Twist?”
“Yes.”
“Awesome.”

Rapid-fire interview over, Riccardo then handed me over to his similarly awarded counterpart Mathias who mixed me up a dry gin martini with a twist – plus a few drops of orange bitters. The gin was Tanqueray and the vermouth Noilly Prat. All ideal for me.

The drink was very well chilled and served in a delicate, thin V-shaped glass with the lemon peel nicely trimmed. It was beautifully mixed and carefully prepared.

My second martini was made following an exploratory consultation that felt like martini therapy with Mathias. The end result was a vodka martini with a dry sherry as the base. I need to recommend this to my friend, the Duchess of Aldgate who is a dry vodka martini fan but also likes a sherry. I savoured it lovingly as the night went on.

Throughout my visit I was offered what felt like a stream of the alcohol equivalent of a tasting menu; a float of amuse bouches in liquid form.

Half way through my first martini I was offered a miniature espresso martini as a little pick me up. I was later given a silken, cheese-toned Mezcal by off-duty Mexican barman Victor – the fact that the clientele include esteemed bartenders from other venues in the city is very telling.

At one point everyone was given a coupe of creamy violet, sweet and sour cocktail (pictured above) which we downed collectively with a bonding skål along the bar.

It is absolutely comfortable to come here on your own. The staff are very accommodating and effusively charming. I was made to feel like a visiting friend.

Like so much in Denmark, from the door handles to the scalloped art deco air vents, every fixture is well designed, practical and beautiful. The glassware was painfully good and almost frightening to use. The acoustics were also perfect, striking the ideal balance of friendly conviviality in the warm hubbub.

Each martini was 145 Danish Krone which, for the quality, setting and customer service felt like an absolute steal.

I am told that every member of staff makes their martini slightly differently so testing them all out would probably constitute ritual suicide – albeit a delightful way to go.

It also really does remind me of the strange dichotomy of martinis: how can something so simple be so complex? Nonetheless, I will continue to explore the concept when I come back to this world-leading venue.

Tak Tata!